Structure of the Program
The series of workshops were designed for senior industry technicians involved in the product development process. The duration of each session is 4- 6 hours (total 40 hours).

Course Content and Overview
Block Drafting BooksThis is the follow up course for the students who completed the “Towards Pattern Making Technology as a Source of Competitive Advantage” block drafting program.The course focuses on practical and theoretical concepts involved in the development of patterns for a sample product range. The garments in the range were selected to represent commonly faced challenges regarding sizing, use of blocks in pattern development, fit issues and fabric selection. The participants will learn principles of initial diagnosis, specification assessment, pattern drafting principles and various methods to address fabric characteristics (ease requirements, stretch, and shrinkage). All garments in the sample range will be constructed for one of the most commonly used dress forms, which is the Figure Form Al512/12/SP Size 12 mannequin.

Program Delivery Method
The format of the course is a combination of instructor presentation and hands on workshop participation where students will be challenged to make critical decisions and make patterns in accordance with specific brief.The study manuals available from the instructor, which are included in the cost of the course, contain the process of pattern development from selected block and other explanatory materials. All sessions involve an interactive component. 

Prerequisites:
Completion of the “Towards Pattern Making Technology as a Source of the Competitive Advantage” block drafting course.

The cost for the year 2013 (minimum 12 students in the class):

Participation fee $26 per hour  $1040.00
Study manuals 200.00 + GST $220.00
Total  $1260.00

Candidates need to register through this website and pay 10% deposit in order to secure place in the class. Please contact us in case of further questions regarding the courses.    

Melbourne Venue and Timetable for 2013:
Kangan Institute Richmond Campus, 85 Cremorne St. Richmond 3121 (see Melway, Map 2G/ H12)Fashion Study Building D first floor, room 201

 

 

Saturdays 9:00 am to 3:30 pm and Wednesdays 6:00pm to 9:30pm.

April

Sat 6th

Wed 10th

 

Wed 24th

Sat 27th

May

Wed 1st

Sat 4th

Wed 8th

Sat 11th

Wed 15th

  

The Topics Offered in the Program: 

1 – Diagnostic Principles of Style Development
Presentation of the range:

  • Classic Fitted Pants – woven fabric
  • Classic Tailored Jacket with lining, rever collar
  • Stretch Tee Shirt
  • Stretch Pants – hipster
  • Dartless jacket with semi-tailored raglan sleeve
  • CamisoleIn the first session students will participate in a case study workshop. They will be provided with overseas product samples assisted by specifications and will learn how to critically evaluate these materials. The participants will learn how to make decisions based on styling and fit requirements to fit the model dress form and how to incorporate fabric properties into those decisions. An overview of factors for consideration when selecting appropriate blocks will be provided. Based on the data available students will learn how to evaluate what percentage of the population may likely be able to wear the garments designed in the range.

2 – Fitted pants pattern with semi – wide legs
In this session students will draft the semi-wide leg fitted hipster pants and diagonal front pockets. The highlights of this session will involve the following topics:

  • Evaluate pants construction principles that should be applied for development of this style and the selected standard figure
  • Evaluate where on the body in relation to waist this type of garment should be designed to fit 
  • How to apply this position to the pattern
  • The students will assess how to transfer the unusual design features to the pattern and maintain the design integrity of the original sample 
  • Discuss the limitations of the diagonally cut pockets and learn how to avoid them gaping.

3 - Classic Tailored Jacket (lined)
In this session students will learn drafting process for the Classic Tailored Jacket with rever collar. Specific topics of interest include:
Selection of appropriate jacket block for the sample style, based on the size and design of the garment.

  • Methodology for construction of the Styling Block (Master draft).
  • Pattern construction principles which avoid restrictive body movement, suit fabric texture and make the figure look smart and flattering.
  • Pattern drafting process to create exact replica of a rever collar.
  • Pattern drafting process to create a two piece tailored sleeve.
  • Lining construction: how to avoid unnecessary seams, reduce ease allowance in the sleeve and make sure
    the lining fits the outer garment shell exactly.

 4 – Stretch T- Shirt
In this session students will learn drafting process for the stretch T shirt. Specific topics of interest include:

  • Assessment of the size of the base block, change of formulas and draft of this block 
  • Performance of dart elimination from the garment block. 
  • Development of a two dimensional pattern structure from a three dimensional block with minimal side  effects.
  • Evaluation how much shaping can be applied to the side seam without creation of distortions to the garment fit.
  • Observe what attributes of this deceptively simple pattern form the fit boundaries or the “make or break” fit scenario. 
  • Draft the low crown sleeve with no ease allowance when stretch allowance requirement of this sleeve is different than that of the bodice block

5 – Stretch Hipster Pants
In this session students will exercise drafting of the stretch pants block according to the fabric stretch-ability. They will learn how to use this block for development of the hipster pants when stretch allowance for hip and waist areas are not the same.   Specific topics of interest include:

  • Draft the stretch pants block and make a pattern.
  • Evaluate the stretch allowance required for the fabric used and apply it to the formulas. Observe how the width of the thigh correlates with reduction of the hip girth and width of the legs at the knee level.
  • Perform the simulated alteration on the existing pattern without distorting its well balanced construction.

6 – Dartless lined jacket with raglan sleeve (lined)
In this session students will draft a raglan sleeve block and will learn how to apply this block into a dartless lined jacket with semi tailored raglan sleeve. Specific topics of interest include:

  • How to make the top seam of the raglan sleeve to follow the direction of the arm?
  • Can the dartless jacket look more like a tailored garment than like a windcheater and be comfortable at the same time?
  • Students need to select the block most suitable for this garment development, make the master draft eliminating the darts with full realization of implications of this process for the garment fit on the three dimensional body.

7 – Empire line garments
In this session students will learn the difference between the basic fitted bodice block and empire line bodice block.  This block will be applied to the camisole pattern. Specific topics of interest include:

  • The allometric change of the block and pattern parameters in relation to the body size, breasts size and garment fit.

8 – Allometric grading plan development
Based on the available sizing data develop the grading plan for all garments. Specific topics of interest include:

  • Evaluate how this grading plan compares with the commonly used practices
  • Check what percentage of the population of different than base sizes will wear our garments comfortably and most of all what percentage of the population will miss out on wearing our garments.
  • Assess when to use the allometric, simplified three dimensional or two dimensional grading and match the grading method in accordance to garment style, fabric used and range of sizes
  • Practical application: Grade tailored jacket and one of the pants using your grading plan.